Day 268-270: Southern Scenic Route; The Grand Finale

The final leg of the Southern Scenic Route was upon us. We were creeping up the western-most road in the south of the South Island and by the time a day-long downpour abated we were at Te Anau; a bustling town that serves as a stock-up-on-petrol-and-food point and gateway to the great Fiordland Mountains.

The Fiordland National Park rolls in undulating mountain ranges, lakes, rivers and glaciers for around 12,500km2 – most of which is inaccessible unless you are very brave, very stupid or Peter Jackson; many of Frodo's infamous adventures where filmed around these ends, you know. But we weren't delving into Middle Earth – we were staying pretty close to civilisation along the winding 120km-or-so road to Milford Sounds, and we were taking our sweet time about it.

All along the road are DOC campsites and lovely clearly-marked walking tracks. The walks seemed to fall into two main categories; under and hour strolls that anyone [grandparents/children/500 Japanese tourists with 499 digital SLRs and 1 16-inch video camera] could do or multi-day treks to far-off destinations for mentalists that actually like walking up hills carrying rucksacks. I am happy to report a full sense of fulfilment and some fantastic photos are the result of completing all of the former and none of the latter.

There is one exception to this rule though; a 3-hour walk up to Key Summit [left] At about 920m above sea level it's not by any means the most challenging walk we've done on this trip but it was rewarding all the same and, though it was a little cloudy, the views from the top were excellent. There was even a self-guided alpine tour around the summit highlighting some of the flora and fauna and explaining how the mountains were formed. God I love the DOC (department for conservation.)

We spent our nights camping by crystal-clear streams and our days walking over swingbridges and past waterfalls until we reached Milford itself. As one of only two Sounds that are accessible to the public (the other, aptly named, Doubtful Sounds is reachable only by boat, then bus, then boat via about 300NZD) it is a truly unique experience.

Lake Milford [below] lies calmly surrounded by a cascading waterfall, curling clouds and endless outlines of almighty mountains.

For me the journey itself was the best thing about getting to remote Milford Sounds, and almost 250km might sound like a long way to drive to look at some old lake; but it is the end of the Southern Scenic Route and it is quite the grand finale.

Day 267: Ode to Invercargill

...because it is right in the middle of the Southern Scenic Route and, I believe that I am being statistically accurate when I say that, no-one has ever heard of Invercargill, ever. Which is a travesty.

Invercargill, oh forgotten town
Your beautiful gardens opened by the crowd
Yet fame and fortune have let you down
Will the world ever know thy name?

A brewery with the finest ale
The fastest Indian – know that's a tale
Why so over-looked? I softy wail
Ever cherished by those who came

Your town it boasts no bungee rope
You were not built by the steepest slopes
Tell me is there any hope
Of international fame?

You're not that big, you're not that small
You cannot boast a shopping mall
Most will not visit you at all
But I love thee all the same

Day 264-266: Taking the Scenic Route (not just getting lost)

Taking “the scenic route” hasn't always held positive connotations for me. It's what my Dad used to say on family holidays when we were packed into the car and still no closer to pinpointing the elusive beach we'd set off for 6 hours ago. “We're not lost, we're just taking the scenic route.” Or when he missed the right exit on the M40 because a sister had eaten two tubes of smarties in 30 minutes and been sick on herself at the crucial moment, “not to worry, we'll take the scenic route to Grandad's instead.” Entering the outskirts of Birmingham from Wolverhampton instead of Solihul isn't 'scenic' – it's just longer.

So when New Zealand's 'Southern Scenic Route' sprang out of the side of the road with it's easy-to-follow sign posts and the promise of, well, scenery I guess, I was dubious. But may it never be said that I cannot admit when I am wrong*.

I am writing from a happy mid-point in the route that stretches like a smile across the southern tip of NZ's South Island from Dunedin to Milford Sounds. And so-far, so good. Dunedin (above) is a lovely little town, usually one sixth students by population (but not in the summer holidays...now), there is a town centre with a beautiful church and plenty of shops. The old train station is a living working homage to Victorian times and, if you're willing to part with some cash (we weren't) you can even watch tiny Blue Penguins waddle up the rugged coast and into their nests each night.

South of Dunedin we stopped for a sunny afternoon at Lake Waihola. Maybe Asia has conditioned us to bath-tub temperature water but there was no chance of a dip here, though Emilio got a bit of a wash-down.

The following day we continued on to Kaka Point, where there was a small summer fête going on; bbq, local cheeses and crafts and pony rides on the beach. About 30 people. The lot. Just past Kaka we were treated to some spectacular views and lots of fur seals and sea lions frolicking below from an old lighthouse at the less-than glamorously named Nugget Point.

I'm not sure if it counts as 'scenic' or just plain mental but one of the highlights for me was 'Tea Pot Land' - just a front garden full of teapots. Every type of teapot you could imagine, it was amazing. And if that wasn't enough we rounded of the day with some cute waterfalls and a beautiful and almost completely deserted beach at Tautuku Bay.

Yeah, I could get into this scenic thing.

*this admission is limited to select cases only. Terms apply